Hollow Wirework Kumihimo Bracelet - CSLDesigns

Published on Jun 5, 2015

In this tutorial I show you how to make a hollow wirework kumihimo bracelet, with beads running along the inside of it. Please feel free to give it a go yourself and I hope you enjoy.


Flush cutters on Amazon:
http://goo.gl/2kFxDL (Affiliate)

6 step bail making pliers on Amazon:
http://goo.gl/QglsTs (Affiliate)

Round kumihimo disk on Amazon:
http://goo.gl/jzzxly (affiliate)


Materials:
6mm diameter wooden dowel with hook on the end
0.8mm round wire (20 gauge)
6mm rounds
10mm end bead caps (Amazon - http://goo.gl/S0oqDu (affiliate))
Findings

http://www.csldesigns.uk/csldesigns-blog/

FAIR USE STATEMENT This website article may contain copyrighted material the use of which has not been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. This material is being made available for the purpose of education, commentary and criticism, it is being distributed without profit, and is believed to be "fair use" in accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107. 

Halloween Wirework Bat - WireworkersGuild.Blogspot.com

HELLO!
HALLOW!
HALLOWEEN!
 

It's that black and orange time of year again! The shops are
filling with all the merchandise relevant to: witches, broomsticks,
black cats, spiders, pumpkins and fake blood and gore! And if
you've got kids, nieces and nephews or grandchildren, you just
can't escape it! But with a few wireworking tools and basic skills,
here's a project that can be adapted for a decoration (to be hung from
black thread) or, as a necklace on a cord or chain, so that you can make
your own piece of Halloween merchandise in the form of a BAT!

 

There's nothing too scary about this tutorial!
I used 0.8mm black iron wire to create the frame.

 

1. To make a pendant, cut about 12" of wire
and starting at the centre of the length, create the
bat shape frame (as shown above).

2.  Secure one end around the other by wrapping (and
cut off any excess) and then, using your round nosed
pliers, create a link with the projecting wire at the base.

3. Working from a spool of 0.3mm black wire, cut off
about 2.5-3 metres of wire and scrunch it up in your
hands!

4. Stretch and flatten the scrunched wire out until it sits at the
centre of your bat frame. Cut an arm's length of 0.3mm wire and
use this to 'stitch' and sew the scrunched wire into the frame,
securing it to the sides.

5.  If you feel there are any gaps within the frame, just add more
wire as required. Once the frame is filled with the scribbled wire,
gently 'stroke' it on a steel block with the steel head of your Whammer
and this will flatten and compress it all together. Then place it over a
rounded object, such as a jar or bottle to dome it slightly.

Next ... you will need 2 x orange/red eye beads, a black bead
for the nose, a pendant drop bead to suspend from the tip of
the frame and a cord or chain to attach it to ...

6. Using a workable length of 0.3mm black wire, attach the
eye and nose beads by 'sewing' them into place within the
scrunched wire frame.

7. Now all that's left, is to connect the drop bead with a jump ring
from the end link of your frame, and attach the cord to each side
of the bat wings.

I'm sure most of you will already know how to create a fish hook
fastener and if not, there are many books and tutorials out there
packed with basic wirework techniques and guidance!

 

 Have fun making this Bat
called Nora! and I look forward
to seeing you on 10th October
at 3pm on:
CREATE and CRAFT TV
for a Xmas themed project
show!

Posted by WireWorkers Guild at 10:29  

Wire Wrapping a Cabochon - Flight-Fancy.Blogspot.com

Wire Wrap Woven Pendant Tutorial part 1

If you happen to wander into this post, please bear with me as I work out writing a decent tutorial. I have found that taking this many pictures is an exercise regime all by itself! So please feel free to comment any suggestions, or questions if I miss something. I would love the feedback.

Materials and Tools

masking tape or small clamps (which ever you find more convenient)

wire straighteners

bent nose pliers, or chain nose

wire cutters

round nose pliers

18 or 20 gauge wire (for frame)

24 gauge wire (for weave)

flat circular focal 

(this onyx was 1.5 inch in diameter)

 

one lap weight to keep you in your chair!

To get started with the frame I form the 20g wire around the outer edge of the focal. Leave just a hairline of space between the wire and the focal for wrapping. Cut the wire, leaving at least 2 inch tails at the top.

Next cut 2 more 20g  wires the same size as this first frame work and do a loose shaping of the circle. I find it easier to hold the 2 together and shape at the same time for continuity.At the bottom center give the 2 wires a slight pinch to create a soft point. The curves need to be slightly smaller than the original diameter..set each piece of new wire on the focal and push gently to shape with the face curve of the stone/ bead. These two wires will be taped in place at the bottom center. One on the front and one on the back. This will cage the focal when it's woven, and make sure the back is pretty too.

Make sure all the tails at the top of the tear drop shape are in front, center, and back order on both sides. looking at the front of the piece determine how far away from the focal you want the top of the teardrop frame point to be. hold the point there, and tape (or clamp) on each side (all 3 of the wires keeping them in order) right next to the 'V' junction to hold the point space in place.

To start on the weaving I cut 2 pieces of the  24g wire approx 30 inches long. One for each side. I like to work both sides simultaneously in order to keep the shape , and tension true. At this point I work by holding the piece in hand, but some people might find a bench vice or clamp handy to hold the piece for them. If you prefer to use one of these tools, please use some padding or batting to protect your pendant from possible scratches.

  

To start weaving/wrapping we're going to go back to elementary school and use the old over / under technique we all used making goofy colored pot holders.

1. Start at the top take  the 24 g wire and slide it under just the center frame wire leave an inch or so tail.
2. wrap the 24g around that center wire 4 times to create a small coil. 
3.  use the bent nose pliers to crimp the coil together and nudge to the top. We're going to leave the tail there to be able to hold the coil in place while we start the wrap
4. whichever side the long end is on start by wrapping 'over' that side frame wire twice
5. the pattern should be: over back wire twice, back under center twice,over front wire twice then back the other direction. alternating the over/ under.
6. for now just nudge the wires close to each other with your thumb. 

Weave down about an inch and repeat the process on the other side to keep the tension balanced. At this point remove the the side pieces of tape. Clean any  tape residue from the wire and focal now. Continue weaving down each side. Depending on the size of your pendant you will have enough wire to meet both wraps at the center bottom. In my case I cut a third length to finish the bottom. If your wire breaks, or you need more length. Make sure you end on the center frame and leave a small tail. To start the connecting weave, wind your around the center frame wire at the bottom, lining up the wrapping wire at it's halfway point. Continue the pattern of weaving up both sides to end and meet on the center wire with 2 wraps where you left off

 

To finish the tails lay the wire over the center wire, and with the flat side of you cutters laying against the center wire, snip the wrapping wire leaving the tiniest fraction to tuck under the center frame wire. Use the tip of you bent nose or chain nose pliers to push that end under the frame wire to hide it. Do this with all tails.

So here's a good point to take a break and work the kinks out your fingers, and get some chocolate energy! Stay tuned for part 2 Embellishing, and the Bail. I will try to get the rest posted by tomorrow! :)
Bright creative blessings, Theresa

 Hey again all you creative beauties. Thanks for hanging in there for part 2 :) Were you brave enough to start wrapping? Maybe printed it off for later reference? (like I tend to do) My mum ( the Baroness) said she printed it off and hung it on the fridge! WOOHOO my artwork is still on the family art gallery :)

I left off with finishing the weave that cages the focal piece. Let's tighten that weave up by gently pinching the double coils along each of the frames. This will help even out the spacing between the coils.

Bail and Embellishments

1. Remove the tape (or clamps) clean any tape residue.

2.Bend the two center wires straight up at the 'V; junction

3.With the front of the piece facing you, bend the front center wire toward you so it's now at a 90 degree angle from the piece.

 4. Coil that wire around the base of the standing wire3 times. Snip, and tuck. You might have to file the end to smooth .

5. measure to four side tails to the same length, mark and snip so they are all the same.

6. Using the tip of your round nose pliers make a tiny loop facing downwards in the end of each of the 4 tails.

7. to form the swirl hold the loop (gently) in your chain/bent nose pliers and bend the wire around. Don't use the pliers to move the swirl (might leave marks) use the pliers only to hold, and use your fingers to bend. Finish all 4 swirls, and push to place them where you want them.

8.To make the bail for the chain, bend the last standing wire towards you at a 90 degree angle at the base of the coil. grasp that point with your round nose pliers and wrap the wire away from you to form the loop

.

9. Keep holding the loop with the pliers and coil that tail around the top of the other coil once.Use the chain or bent nose pliers to pinch all 4 coils together. Then we are going to make another swirl with that tail, and push it down on the front in front of the coil on the bail.

So now what to you do with an UGLY spot? Small scratch/chip/weird drill spot on the focal? You can cover with further embellishments. Personally I won't sell this piece because the of the (big) ugly spot, but it was handy to use for this tutorial. To cover the ugly spot I made an 'S' shape swirl. Same process as above. Cut a 4 inch piece of the 20g wire and make the small loops at each end. One pointed up one pointed down. Then I loosened the very outer row on each swirl to be able to use the 24g wire to wrap it to the inner frame to cover the ugly spot. I did 3 wraps around each connection point, and snipped and tucked the ends.

Okay guys, that's it! :) If you try this out I would love to see your versions. Feel free to post pics on my facebook page or link here in the comments. I would love any feedback or questions you may have. Good luck!

Bright Creative Blessings, Theresa ♥

FAIR USE STATEMENT This website article may contain copyrighted material the use of which has not been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. This material is being made available for the purpose of education, commentary and criticism, it is being distributed without profit, and is believed to be "fair use" in accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107. 

Wirework DragonFly - SheIs12.Blogspot.com.au

Wire Wrap Dragonfly Pendant Tutorial

http://sheis12.blogspot.com.au/2013/01/wire-wrap-dragonfly-pendant-tutorial.html

 

As promised here is the latest tutorial for this lovely dragonfly pendant. So lets gather our tools and get started.

 

 

 

 

For this project I used:

1. bent nose pliers
2. wire snips
3. round nose pliers
4. 8 inches of 18 gauge artistic wire
5. 20 inch length , and a 12 inch length of 24 gauge wire
6. chain
7. matching clasps and jump rings 
8. complimentary brass finding or flower accent
9. 6 glass pearl beads in graduating sizes

 

NOTE: This is just an example, not written in stone! I love happy accidents , and encourage you to experiment with your own colors and variations :)

 

Here's the note card sketch I did when I made the first one. I generally make a quick sketch afterwards to remind me of how I did a new design. If it serves as a reference for you, great!

 

 

Starting with the 8 inch thicker wire, and using my bent nose pliers I bent a gentle 'v' shape at the 4 inch mark.

 

 

 I wanted the wings to be about 1 inch, so I measured and marked 1 inch out from the center on both sides.

 

 

  

 

Then proceeded to gently fold the wire over my ring mandrel at that 1 inch mark, make the bend on both sides. you should wind up with a basic heart shape. ( you can also use a pen, dowel, knitting needle, etc to form what ever size curve you wish.)

 

 

  

 

Bring the tails up until they lie flat and parallel to the tops of the wings. hold the tails in place at the 'v' point with your pliers and use your fingers to bend the tails down at a gentle angle. The tails are criss cross here. Looks like a bow now.

 

 

  

 

At this point I measured and snipped both tails to equal lengths (1.25 inch) to start forming the bottom wings. 

 

 

  

 

Using the round pliers hold the tip of tail up towards the top points of the pliers. ( I generally roll away from myself) roll the pliers until the wire forms the small loop, continue to to roll the loop until you have a small half spiral. Looking at the picture  the small loop will curve up towards the bottom of the top wings. 

 

 

 

 

There the frame is formed, and we have 2 top wings and 2 bottom wings. 

 

 

  

 

Now it's time to add the lacy look to the wings. Using the longer 24 gauge wire we are going to find the half point on the fine wire, and lie that center point over the top center of the wings, and fold the fine wire to the back of wings.

 

 

 

 

 Take the top fine wire and wrap one coil around the 'v' point going to the left, and take the bottom fine wire and wrap one coil around the bottom right of the top wing. 

 

 

 

 

 Just working on the right wing for now we are going to do that over under thing. Since the wrapping wire is at the back....up through the center over the front of the top, around and up through the center, and over the front of the bottom....continue alternating top and bottom until you reach the curved tip of the wing. 

 

 

 

 

Around the curve of the wing we are just going to tightly coil the wrapping wire around and around until the curve is filled.

 

 

  

 

Once filled with the coiling make sure the wrapping wire is to the back of the piece, and snip it close to the wing frame wire.

 

 

 

 

See the tiny snipped end. Use your flat pliers to crimp that end towards the inside of the wire frame. I always run the piece against my cheek (The cheek test) to make sure I can't feel any snags!

 

 

  

 

From here continue on the opposite side and complete the left wing in the same pattern.

 

 

 

 

 Okay, let's bead this bad boy :) I was out of brass flowers so I flattened a bead cap to create one. 

 

 

 

 

Next using the 12 inch piece of 24 gauge wire we are going to put the (large) head bead at about the 4 inch mark. bend the wire around the bead and pinch together under the bead.

 

 

  

 

The tails of the wire should be one long, one short. Add the flower and pull it up close to the head bead.

 

 

 

 

 open the tails slightly (like a bobby pin) and slide onto the center wrap on the frame. One tail on each side of that center wire. Pull the head bead and flower up close and snug to the frame.

 

 

  

 

In back separate the tails and bend the longer one up to the top of the frame, and the short one down to the bottom of the frame.

 

 

  

 

Take the top wire and bring it to the center front between the top flower petals , and wrap it one and a half times around the base of the bead. So now the long wire is in front and pointed down

 

 

 

 

Gently nudge the bead upwards towards the top of the petals. String the next large bead on the short wire and push up to first bead. Cross the long wire over the top of the short wire between the two beads, and coil the long wire around the short wire once. the long wire is now pointed sideways between the two beads.

 

 

  

 

Holding the long wire on the right side of the second bead, wrap it around the short wire with one coil at the bottom of the second bead. String the next size bead on and repeat process between each bead down the short wire

 

 

  

 

Now that each of the beads  have been strung and wrapped all the way down, your piece should look like the picture above. Now we are going to continue with the long wire and wrap and coil in the same fashion going up the opposite side.To 'tie off' the long wire I ended between the first and second beads and put the long (not as long now) wire through to the back of the piece and wrapped 3 coils on the heavy wing frame wire. Snipped and crimped to the inside like previously instructed.

 

 

 

 

At this point I gently nudged any slack out of the bead wrapping, by pushing the beads upwards along the short wire.

 

 

  

 

To finish the short tail I trimmed the wire to 1 inch and used the round nose pliers to make a tight flat spiral. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To finish I chose to use double clasps to attach to the wings. My daughter likes to trade out her pendants, and this is an easy way to do that. 

Well I truly hope you find this helpful or inspirational! If I missed anything or if you have a question please leave a comment :)

Creative Blessings! T

 

Posted by CJ Theresa at 3:06 PM